Via Lupi: Andrea in Europe 2011

VIA LUPI

Stockholm, capital of Scandanavia

Very, very delayed post. I actually wrote this ages ago (at the Frankfurt airport) but forgot to post it! Anyway, here it is :)

Haha. I started blogging about Oslo. Would have been interesting to read 2 of the same takes of the same city at different points in time. Didn’t realize I’d already told you about Oslo!  Lucky for you, what I was writing started sounding a little too familiar so I checked my earlier posts and realized I did in fact already do Oslo.

I will therefore move on to SWEDEN! Stockholm was amongst the top places on my life long list of places to go. I’d initially wanted to save it for winter because Stockholm in Christmas is meant to be magical, but I am more than pleased with myself for choosing to go in summer anyway. When Summer comes to Stockholm, there is an endless list of things to do. Being an Archipelago and being made up of 30,000+ islands, there are countless places to ‘escape’ to, if the main island ever needs escaping in the first place. I guess for the Stockholmers, the islands are the place to go when the hoards of tourists like me turn up. Also, every few years new islands are discovered since the land is still rising from the built up pressure from the last ice age. Pretty amazing that there are still aftermath effects so many thousands of years on, like in Oslo how the fjords have become such a major attraction for people all around the globe. Anyway, I didn’t make it too far out the archipelago because of time restrictions but it’s always good to have something to do next time :)

Nyssa and I had a total of 5.5 days in Stockholm, the longest time we’d spent in the one city since we’d been in Florence. Was nice to wind down a little bit and not have to unpack and repack the suitcase so often. I felt like we really got to experience the culture more riding bikes, walking and taking boats as our forms of transport

We opted for a 3 day Stockholm Card which entitled us to many museums and attractions. Scandanavia (well, Oslo and Stockholm at least) have the best modern and contemporary museums in the world! So many ideas and concepts that are so unique and novel to the world it doesn’t  surprise me that companies like Ikea and Georg Jensen originate from Scandanavia. They kind of remind me of the Japanese in that way, but their ideas seem a little more carefree than the very technically precise Japanese. In terms of museums in Stockholm, I visited the National Museum of Architecture and the Modern museum which were both situated on the very small Skeppsholmen (which translates to Ship’s Island), a short boat ride away from the island of Djurgården. Djurgården is where the Vasa ship is situated. The Vasa ship is the only fully recovered ship from the 17th century (it sunk on it’s maiden voyage :( and was recovered 300 years later from the depths of the ocean!). The re-piecing was so accurate that the directors of Pirates used the Vasa and copied the model for Jack Sparrow’s Black Pearl in the Pirates movies!!! I only found this out a day after I visited the ship…probably would’ve spent the entire day there if I’d known earlier. Which reminds me, I still need to watch Prates 4!

Anyway, Djurgården is actually quite a fascinating one. Part of it is dedicated to ships and museums about ships, another part houses the oldest theme park in Scandanavia (didn’t make it there, unfortunately – probably for the best because we would have been at least twice everyone’s age), another part is a zoo / national park type thing called Skansen. Spent a good few hours in Skansen seeing my first elk, my first reindeer, my first wolverine and other things! I was very amused by the baboons. Photos (many of them) to appear in Facebook soon. Reindeer antlers look furry! They look exactly like the toy antler beanies / hats you get at Christmas time! They also manage to fit 2 palaces on this tiny island!


We had to work our activies around the weather forecast which ALWAYS was wrong. Seriously, weather in Stockholm is more unpredictable and volatile than Melbourne. Hard to believe but so very true. We didn’t have many days to choose to bike ride but we happened to go on one of the best! Not a single drop of rain. We rode around the island of Djurgården and the surrounding area on the main island. We had the best guide. She was so smiley and had the best facts about Stockholm to share. I’ll give you a few.

1.     The government gives 2 sets of (predominantly) transferrable parental leave – one for the mother and one for the father. They made 2 months non-transferrable. These 2 months are known as the “father months” unsurprisingly because when the months are transferred they more often than not end up on the mother’s side. During the months where the baby is under care of the father, you see “latté dads” or fathers’ clubs going on walks with prams. Rather amusing sight!


2.     The name “Stockholm” is known to have come from the fact that the city produced a lot of wood, and “holm” meaning island, it meant “wood island”. Our guide told us that this is only one of the many meanings. Thus making it more of a rumour than anything…but still. It’s nice to think the name has some sort of meaning.

3.     In Sweden, education is free. In high school, they even get free lunch! When they get to uni, education is still free but lunch is non-inclusive. Instead, they get a bulk payment to support them in their studies as well as a special scheme for student loans.

4.     Systems such as the free education system is only facilitated by the government collecting a lot of tax! However, this is made possible by the high level of females in employment. In Sweden, strong emphasis is placed in gender equality so it’s easy for women to get jobs.

5.     In Sweden, there’s a law that makes it legal to camp for a night anywhere you want, provided you’re not within a typical resident’s immediate line of sight. Ie. You can pitch a tent in a national park! You can also camp for a night in someone’s backyard if it’s big enough. However, the Swedes are very respectful people (from what I gathered) which is the only reason why this law works. Can’t imagine it working in Melbourne. People would get way too excited about it and abuse it.

6.     In Sweden, the have sayings that are used equally as frequently and have equal importance as sayings such as “if you don’t eat your greens you’ll go blind”. One saying that “if the sun is shining, you have to be outside” (apparently in Swedish it rhymes or something so it makes more sense haha)…explaining why the Swedish are all so tanned and have bleach blonde hair! That coupled with the fact there are tens of thousands of islands to choose from AND that they get up to 20 hours of sunlight per day in summer!

Of course, I got my fair share of shopping done…AND spotted Elin Kling (famous Swedish fashion editor and blogger) on the streets. Sweden has the best shopping in the world. No joke. Oslo was good, but I think things are in general a little more expensive. I have some new favourite shops that I am very sad to have left behind but all the more incentive for me to return in the (not so near) future (due to fears of shopaholicism, if I don’t have that already). There are also plenty of shops to purchase interior decorations and useless little household gadgets. If I’d had my own home to decorate, I would have been coming back to Melbourne with a second if not third suitcase filled with variations of bottle openers, silicone baking trays and remote control holders etc. So good thing I hadn’t moved out yet! COuldn’t not buy something from Acne. Other favourites were Monki, Weekday and Cos. Make sure you visit these three stores when you come to Scandinavia they will not disappoint! Tax refunds don’t hurt either. 

In terms of food, Swedish meatballs are EXCELLENT! Definitely the best meatballs I’ve had. I really really wanted to try reindeer meet or elk steak but never got around to that. They also have very good sushi! Best sushi apart from sushi in Japan. Couldn’t find Rekorderlig ANYWHERE(?!) but tried another one I forget the name was which was tasty.

Can’t forget the palace situated on Drottningholm unsurprisingly called Drottningholm’s palace. It is known as the Versailles of the north, presumably because of the gardens and the beautiful landscape architecture. I personally can’t say it is in fact the Versailles of the north but it was definitely a grand palace I wouldn’t mind living in! It’s actually the official residence princess of Sweden and her husband (who she met because he was her personal traininer at the gym haha). We toured the whole palace except for where they actually live, of course. Would be a bit tormenting for them if they had foreigneres running through their corridors on a daily basis. Oh and coming back to the point about gender equality in Sweden, the Stockholm palace have female guards sometimes! I had to do a second take.

I spent half a day relaxing, wandering around Södermalm island which is kind of like the Fitzroy of Stockholm…in the best way possible. Plenty of unique little boutiques, cute cafes and op shops. One of the streets is referred to as SoFo (after Soho in London, but the “fo” coming from the street name “folkungsgatan” on the island “Södermalm”). There’s also one of the best views from a cliff like thing on that island where you can see the island of Kungsholmen where the city hall and colourful town houses are. Such a beautiful view! Best view was probably from the city hall tower (the city hall itself I could write a whole blog about! But im sure pictures will give you an idea – one room was completely decorated in 18kt gold mosaic tiles! One of the Nobel Prize balls are held there yearly)

So, that is my recollection of Stockholm! Exceeded my expectations, would’ve loved to have spent another week there and also want to go there again in winter! Obviously, it’s left an impression on me and it’s a place I can only see to get better.

Right now, I’m sitting at Changi airport in Singapore waiting to board the plane for my final leg home to Melbourne! Hearing all these Australian accents right now makes me a little sad that I won’t be able to hear and play my own game of trying to depict foreign accents at any given moment in a day. Frankfurt airport was a little experience in itself. 10 hours of plane waiting turned out to be not as boring as I thought it would be because I was kept entertained with Boost juices, balloons, cups and the 3 German boys bored at work for the most part. It made me how much my German speaking skills have deteriorated. My response to this realization was to watch Goodbye Lenin on the plane from Frankfurt to Singapore. Even if I did just read the subtitles. Great movie – watch it if you haven’t already!

Anyway, that marks the end of my European (and UK) adventure! It’s been 4 months of once in a lifetime, unique experiences I will not forget (especially since I’ve recorded it here – thank you Katrina for the idea!), plenty of new acquaintances I am glad to have met whether or not I see them again, amazing food and generous cultures. I wouldn’t be able to express in words what I’ve learnt and will hopefully take through to my every day life back in Melbourne.

 

Goodbye Via Lupi! Thanks for facilitating my 4 month public rant about living, travel, and thoughts.

stockholm!!!

stockholm!!!

Oh, Oslo

Hello from Norway!!

Nyssa and I had a total of 4.5 days in Norway so we chose to spend it in Oslo itself. Although a trip to the western coast to cities such as Bergen and Ålesund would have been extremely nice I think i’ll have to put them on the long list of places to go when I am next in Europe (other places include Switzerland, Denmark, England and the rest of Spain amongst many many other cities and countries). We were busy the whole 4.5 days!

People in Oslo are very well presented. Well dressed, good mannerisms, very polite and well spoken. I think most of them are tri-lingual if not more. Their English is the best i’ve come across in Europe…I could almost mistake some of them for Americans! Although, the majority of people I came across were either working in the tourism industry or working in a retail shop…so maybe that’s why. Norwegian itself sounds like Simlish (the language they speak in the Sims) and is very rapidly spoken. Can’t imagine it’d be easy to learn. They greet you with a really excited “hihi!!” haha it’s really cute. Some words that i’ve picked up are “Sko” (shoes) and “Veska” (bag) and Salg (sale)…wow that really shows what i’ve been doing here

Even though it’s summer, it only usually gets as hot as 20 degrees celsius and anything above that is too hot for the poor Norwegians. A really cool thing about their summer is that they have around 18 hours of daylight each day! Up in the northern parts of Norway, it never gets fully dark in summer. Was a little strange looking outside the window at 11pm and still seeing what is known as the “midnight sun”.

Oslo consists of many different districts and they are really distinct and they changeover really suddenly. As soon as you pass the central station, you come to this really dodgy area that kind of reminds me of Springvale. Then if you go a little further on into the next district, it becomes very business-y and clean with upmarket cafes. Even further along you’ll find a forest. Other districts are the shopping district, the residential district, the high end residential district, the harbour and others that I never came across. The high end residential district was so pretty; wooden houses, quiet streets with the odd mother + pram going for a stroll.

(Royal palace - a little underwhelming coming from Edinburgh where there’s the spectacular Holyrood House)

The Akershus castle has been through a lot! Built in the 11th century to protect Oslo, survived all of Sweden’s siege attempts, was destroyed by fire, was rebuilt, existed when Oslo was taken over by Denmark-Norway King Christian IV who changed the name of Oslo to Christiania, was still there when the city’s name was changed back to Oslo, was surrendered to Nazi Germany, had executions of Norwegian traitors performed within it, was used as a prison and today is still a military area and is used as a formal dining place for special royal occasions whilst also being open to the public. Anyway, it’s a modest castle, nothing tooooo extravagant inside. At least not today.

Vigelands park and museum were very horizon broadening in terms of my knowledge of art (which is limited and thus not all that hard to broaden). Totally different style of sculpture that i’m used to. Not that I know anything different to Italian style statutes (predominantly Michelangelo sculpted) so I guess anything I see from now that isn’t like David will shock me because of it’s differences. Gustav Vigeland (Norwegian sculptor) does have a very unique style…a lot of symbolism of relationships, life and death.

Giving the statue men a hand lifting up the fountain bowl (it was impossible to get a photo without a hoard of people in the fore/background the park was seriously packed with tour groups!)

The park was beautiful. Could’ve spent the entire day there! There was a big outdoor swimming area there too. Norwegians are keen on outdoor activity. During my time here, i’ve come across a proportionately large number of people in gym gear, many young boys on skateboards, tourists and locals on bikes, people just going for brisk walks along the river and the map tells me there are many outdoor swimming areas - a popular activity in Norway, especially in forest lakes or freshwater rivers.

I’ve grown to really like contemporary and modern art museums! There are two in Oslo and they have pieces and projects in them that I could literally stare at for more than 10 minutes (was going to say “for hours” but I have to be a little realistic here…) Norwegian artist Snorre Ytterstad was probably one of my favourites. There was an exhibition for his project entitled “Squared Target”. He takes ordinary things then puts them in an unusual context so they lose their common meaning (eg. a) i’m sure there’s also some sort of political message behind it too.

We took advantage of the sunniest day forecasted to go on a bike ride along the Akerselva river. Actually, we initially planned to go on a fishing trip but that would have costed billions because the guy basically ran a monopoly over fishing tourism in Oslo. We came across some steep hills that we had to walk our bikes up because they only had 3 gears and our legs are not that powerful. It was well worth the effort seeing some modestly sized waterfalls (at least in comparison to Plitvice Lakes haha), cute ducks, ducks with Crocs on their heads, and got to ride through many districts of Oslo.

We also managed to fit in a Fjord cruise on the Oslofjord but I found out while on the cruise that the Oslofjord was not actually a type of fjord that I thought it would be (formed in the ice age) but was instead formed via some sort plate shift. We cruised past many islands on the fjord, some of which were privately owned (lucky people) and others open to the public. There was actually some festival going on on one of the islands while we were there. So that particular island was used for that sole purpose over the weekend. Pretty cool! Some islands are hired out by people for birthday parties / events.

Beach houses when there is no beach

We did manage to eat out on our second last night. Some of the best seafood i’ve ever had was at this restaurant on the Oslofjord harbour restaurant called Lofoten. We went for the 4 course menu which included a salmon entree (so tender and moist! but I forget what else was in the entree…), a scampi soup (delicious!), a Halibut fillet with aubergine cream and for dessert, a chocolate mousse and strawberry sorbet. The dessert contained some of the confectionary thing that pops in your mouth like the Magic Elves chocolate! Was an enjoyable meal and finally an insight into Norwegian cuisine! Nyssa and I have been commenting on how hard it will be going back to Melbourne and not being extremely impressed by every piece of fish we eat wherever we go.

I was never going to forget to mention the SHOPPING! Oslo has been the best city for shopping so far. Sales everywhere and a good mix of bargain stores, designer stuff, vintage and high end designer. We went on a bit of a spree on monday. We were on one shopping street for 6 hours only stopping for lunch (which was takeaway anyway) and only sitting down to try on shoes. Focussed. Here’s a picture of me evidently pleased with myself to have tracked down Acne and make a purchase! First of a few Acne visits to come…

Norwegian shopping haul…

We had Chinese food on our last night. Couldn’t help it! Or window was open and the smell was wafting in right up our noses. Before long we were chomping away on rice and our sizzling plate of beef and vegetable. Mmm. Melbourne version is much better though. It’s funny to hear Chinese people speak Norwegian! I wonder how their accent is…

Should show you this as well. Found it at the National Gallery of Oslo.

“The Scream” by Norwegian expressionist artist Edvard Munch (his most famous work)

So yeah! This is Oslo! People are telling us that Stockholm is even better…we fly out tomorrow. Gotta wake up extra early so we can get the tax back on all our spending hooray!

Scotland (Edinburgh, the highlands and Glasgow)

A little easier to understand the accent here. Instead of having to ask them to repeat what they said twice (like in Ireland) i’d only have to ask once…! The Scottish accent is actually quite pleasant once you get used to it.

Edinburgh

Edinburgh - a reaaaaaally liveable city! So beautiful. The Royal Mile was definitely a highlight. I had to stop every second step all the way from North Bridge to Castle hill to take photos because everything was medieval and grand! There is a real mix of architecture throughout the city…the Parliament building looked super modern but that is situated right opposite the Palace of Holyrood house where the Scottish royals sometimes live. I couldn’t go inside because The Queen was in town and there was a function going on inside. I did manage to get a glimpse of some sort of festivity with trumpets etc but no sighting of her majesty. Anyway, did a fair bit of shopping to balance out the museum going. The castle fort presented unique views of the city. Everything in Edinburgh is beautiful from ground level and above! The castle stands on volcanic rock that has been there for more than 300 million years…it was use during the Bronze age BC! Now it’s there as a museum.

Edinburgh castle

Sidenote: I’m sitting in my hotel room in Oslo, Norway trying to recall all the things I did in Scotland…this is proving very difficult. I actually wrote it all down but managed to throw it in the bin along the way - whoops! Anyway, i’ll do my best.

I did a lot of walking in Edinburgh…tried to get a feel of the districts and tried to find some good unique shops. Walked around the water of Leith and found two modern art museums featuring pieces by Joan Miro and Eduardo Paolozzi. Bagpipes could be heard everywhere I went btu particuarly loudly on the Royal Mile. No different to home in Melbourne with the PLC bagpipes team blasting early in the morning, often on weekends…who knows why. They should change that. 

Oh! The best buffet breakfast was had in Edinburgh…a nice change from the standard cornflakes and milk at hostels on the eastern tour and Dublin. I even got to try “haggis” and “black pudding” two traditional Scottish specialities. Haggis is basically all the insides of a sheep blended and made into a patty which is then lined in sheep stomach and pan fried. Haha. It was actually quite tasty. Black pudding is a pig’s blood patty. That was not so enjoyable…at all. Had to down a big bowl of berries to try and reverse the what all the horrible things could have been doing to my body.

The most visually appetising breakfast I’ve had thus far

Anyway, on to the highlands! Really looking forward to this part after having heard all sorts of wonderful things about the lochs, glens and inverlochs (translated to english; lakes, valleys and mouths’ of rivers). Was a little rainy when Nyssa and I went up with a tour bus but we still managed to see a LOT! We started in Edinburgh at 8am and return back at 8pm. We drove through mountains and valleys, past castles (many of which rung a bell because all the houses in school were named after Scottish castles eg. Stirling, Atholl and Balmoral - I think we passed Atholl and Balmoral) and lakes. We stopped at Glencoe where it was very misty, making it eerily pretty. Next stop Trossachs where we visited some highland cows.

Highland cows

After this we moved onwards towards Urquhart Castle which turned out to not actually be a proper castle. It was more like a piece of lands with a couple of rocks on it. Well, a little more than that then. It was extensively ruined and partly rebuilt. It sits on the banks of the Loch Ness river and is the castle in which most of the “sightings” of the loch ness monster “Nessie” have been recorded. The Loch ness itself was massive! We took a ferry ride part way across

Loch Ness

Urquhart Castle

A scenic and educational trip to the Scottish highlands!

Managed to catch up with Liane and Darcy for a short evening in Edinburgh. They had to get up early in the morning to go to visit the lakes and castles since it was Liane’s last day of her trip!

Liane and Darcy

On my last day in Scotland, Darcy drove the both of us to Glasgow (only like an hour away). Was a good drive despite the GPS telling us to keep getting off then getting back on the stupid M8 highway. Anyway, we made it there and were overall impressed by the city. Much less touristy much more businessy. Plenty of motivated people all around. It really reminded me of Melbourne, it had a grid like city center with high rise buildings. Only, Glasgow was more medieval. Would’ve liked to see more if i’d known more but honestly, I had no idea what Glasgow had to offer…i’d only ever heard of it in a musical context…i’m sure the live music at night would be very good. Got back to Edinburgh in time for Nyssa and I to catch the bus to the airport.

Good bye Edinburgh! Thank you for being so pretty!

Edinburgh by night

Next stop - Norway! A highly anticipated part of our trip…largely due to the shopping…and of course Oslo itself! 

Dublin (if you know what I mean)

The language spoken in Ireland today should not be classified as “English”. I really have to concentrate hard when talking to or listening to an Irishman, especially that taxi driver who we liked so much that we called him the following day to pick us up then as well. He said “you know what I mean” about twice in every sentence for the whole 2 taxi rides. Friendly guy if you could understand him.

After a full day of travelling, (with a 4 hour stopover in Latvia…still debating whether I can say “I’ve been to Latvia” or not) Nyssa and I arrived at Dublin airport just after 12am, making it to our hostel before 2am. Wearing half the contents in our suitcase (to cut down luggage weight) we barged in with our massive suitcases and hand luggages to our tiny hostel room where Jen, Paulie, Reuben and Rob were sleeping. We somehow managed to wake them all up with our really subtle slams of the door and flicking of bathroom lights (Reuben addressed this politely…) but eventually hopped into bed to get a brief nap before attempting to squeeze as much as we could out of Dublin in the 1 day we had.

Young people filled the streets in Dublin. I don’t know if it was the time of day or year but it was an unusual sight because everywhere else i’ve been so far (except maybe Paris) the majority of people on the streets were adults. We joined one of the free tours and learnt a little bit about the Irish, the Vikings, the people, the rivals (everyone in the UK seem to dislike the English apart from themselves) and some other fun facts like how Dublin derives from the Irish gaelic “Dubh Linn” meaning “black pool” since the river Poddle flowed under the castle and formed a black pool behind it. We ditched the tour half way through because we really needed to pee. Cafe’s in Dublin remind me of Melbourne cafes - something i’ve missed a lot being in Europe for so long! Cute little coffee shops with comfortable seating areas, a proper coffee menu (in English!), SOY MILK(!!!) and home made cakes. We went sightseeing a little more before stopping for lunch at an Irish pub to try traditional Irish stew. I never knew what the term “hearty” meant in relation to soup and even now i’m not quite sure but i’d say this soup was very “hearty” indeed. Wandering around the city, passing by churches, the castle, the Chester Beatty library, the city hall, the spire, Trinity College, walking along the river (an important aspect of my itinerary I had pre-written in the 4 hour layover in Latvia) and stopping for some smoothies, we managed to get a glimpse of Dublin. People are nice (I seem to be saying this a lot but people everywhere are generally nice!) and there is a lot of variety in terms of food and shopping, lots of young people and stand out personalities (like goths and punks, especially around the university grounds) the businessmen in the suits, the odd homeless man, the tourists that come in masses and the Australians (a LOT of them!).

We then paid a visit to the Guinness Storehouse. I was hesitant at first - I nearly didn’t go…but eventually just gave in because Reuben insisted it was part of Irish culture not to be missed. The storehouse (museum part) is a 7 storey high circular building with the bottom few layed out like a musem, telling us how it is brewed, what makes it special, offers you a chance to taste roasted barley (tasted like a coffee bean to me) and things like that. Interesting stuff but if you asked me anything now, I would not be able to give you anything. Anyway, making our way up we got to the 5th floor and were given a sample - my first taste of Guinness….it was so smooth! It had a creamy like texture and had a refreshing taste. On the 7th floor there is the Gravity Bar which provides the best 360 panoramic view of Dublin from high up (obviously) where they serve 1 complimentary pint of Guinness per visitor. It was a packed little room with a bunch of different people - apparently it is a popular place to go to start a hens night.

Paulie got his hair cut and styled. Haha. Definitely not what he asked for. Reuben got a hot shave at the same place and the guy “didn’t normally do that” but made an exception for him so Reuben accepted the offer. Bad move right there. Lucky I didn’t get long overdue my hair cut there! After dinner (malaysian chicken curry! Haven’t had rice since Melbourne until then!) we went to a local pub to watch the much anticipated boxing match Haye vs Klitschko. Not the biggest boxing fan but the way the boys were talking about it made it sound alright. The pub was buzzing! I don’t know why I was surprised that females were highly outnumbered. The atmosphere was memorable…excitement and competitiveness is contagious! Klitschko won, as expected but unfortunately there were no KO’s. After this we went bar hopping a little bit, since it would’ve been pointless to try and sleep since people like to shout as loud as they can until 2am, their favourite street to screm and talk loudly on seemed to be the one just outside our window. Headed back for a final Dublin sleep, ready to embrace yet another flight tomorrow to destination Edinburgh!

Eastern trekker

It has been an adventure filled week having “trekked” around eastern Europe with a group of people organized by Busabout and our entertaining Croatian tour leader Mattje. It’s been a real eye opener into the history of each country, various wars and how each culture has morphed and developed into what it is today. We met up in Split and hopped straight on the bus en route to Bosnia, Serbia, Bulgaria and finally Istanbul.

Why did I choose such an odd set of countries out of all the countries in and around Europe that I could’ve visited instead? It was largely because I had a limit on the amount of days I was allowed to spend within the “Schengen” group of countries (most European countries are part of that agreement) and the countries on this tour were not part of the Schengen so it was very convenient. Also, I thought it would be a really good chance to experience the road less travelled (a road I was too scared to explore on my own so having a Croatian guide was perfect). Mattje was an excellent tour leader, always energetic and joking about everything and everyone. Our group of 11 was largely Australian along with 2 NZers and 2 Canadians and 1 English. By the end of the trip, there was a visible divide in the group haha. Sigh…females.

Mostar (Bosnia Herzegovina)

A pleasant surprise! I thought it would just be a semi-pointless pit stop on the way to the more well known capital Sarajevo. However, this little old medieval town had it’s own charm. The Stari Most (Old Bridge) was my highlight. It is a >30m high bridge going over the Neretva river that is kind of what the town is known for to people other than locals. Divers do tricks off it for entertainment and some random people use it as a money making scheme; “I’ll jump off if you give me money”. The pavement was by far the most difficult to walk on in comparison to all the other European cities I’ve been too. Even harder than cobblestone! It may be because I was wearing my Havaianas but the walkways were made of big oval shaped pebbles sticking up vertically, held together by concrete with a depth that only rose halfway up the pebbles, making each step feel like I was walking on sandpapered sharks teeth. The Neretva river was surprisingly blue, almost (but not) comprable to the teal colour of the Plitvice Lakes. Managed to pick up a little souvenir for Mel. I think it’s cute hopefully she will be in agreement! 

Sarajevo (Bosnia Herzegovina)

Probably my favourite city on this tour. For this city, we got a local guide who had lived in Sarajevo her entire life and had first hand experienced the Bosnia war in 1991-1995 where the whole city was destroyed. Even now, I find it hard to imagine how hard people must have worked to get the city looking like how it does now in only 16 years. It seems that only in the recent few years have the locals started working on their morale again, having high hopes set on their country and their future. In the outskirts of both Sarajevo and Mostar, there are still some buildings that are still visibly damaged from the war, some only half existent; some only consisting of a few walls and some with holes in the side due to grenade explosions. Going back a little in time, it was in Sarajevo (arguably) that WW1 was initiated when Franz Ferdinand, the Archduke of Hungary was assassinated right next to this bridge:

Had a traditional Bosnian 4 course meal for dinner one night - very meaty and plenty of variety which was great! Finished with a baklava-type thing which Bosnia claim to be theirs but really, everyone knows their Turkish…bit of tension still there clearly. Which reminds me…a lot of architecture; particularly the mosques and Ottoman style buildings in Bosnia strongly resemble the architecture in Istanbul, Turkey. Probably came from when Bosnia was still part of Yugoslavia and upon being rebuilt, nothing was changed to the architectural ideas.

Also, my first Bosnian coffee (with lots of added sugar):

Belgrade (Serbia)

Take 2 on Belgrade! I don’t think I blogged about it when I was last here…or maybe I did. Anyway, it was my second time to Belgrade in 1.5 weeks. Katrina, Nyssa and I stopped over for a night on the way from Athens to Croatia. We didn’t get to see much - only stopped at the main pedestrian street for a Serbian dinner. We were taken on a walking tour with a local guide who literally knew everything about Belgrade. Mattje offered a free drink to anyone who could ask this local guide a question about Belgrade that he couldn’t answer correctly. In the end no one legitimately scored a free drink! (Someone got half a free drink I think). He knew the most random details from the price per square meter of land in Belgrade to what society sponsored the building of a particular embassy in Belgrade. Although very insightful, I was less impressed by the city as a whole as compared to other European cities i’d been to. The cafe culture was likeable and the prices were great but it seemed just like an ordinary city to me but obviously with a lot more history. Interestingly, he didn’t bring up anything about the Bosnia war…probably because he knew we’d just come from Sarajevo and would press him on the topic if it were to arise.

Nis (Serbia)

Only a quick stop here. I managed to visit the Gypsy markets (cheap essentials) and the fort where there are archaeological ruins and also paid a visit to a few local cafes where they spoke no English so trying to order 1 baklava, 1 crempita and a donut to excessively long.

Sofia (Bulgaria)

There are some spectacular monuments in Sofia. Unfortunately, many were under construction or it’s surrounding area was under construction, making the city a little less picturesque. Anyway, we managed to get a decent idea of what it would look like ordinarily and were still impressed by the scale of the cathedrals and statues. Bulgarians love gold. They cap domes with gold, cover statues arms and legs and face in gold and coat towers in gold. It’s very pretty.

 

Although a must see city if you are ever in Bulgaria, it did not stand out too much for me. We did have a fun night at a Gypsy themed restaurant where there was an excessive amount of good food, song and dance entertainment and a lively atmosphere. 

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

A welcome change to the business of Sofia. Plovdiv is an old Roman town with much less tourism and it provided more freedom to roam the (very uneven) streets to observe the people, the culture and the architecture. Below is an example of multiple influences on 1 town - a roman arch connecting to Ottoman style buildings which were erected under the Ottoman rule in 14th Century.

Dinner with the group (feat. Wendy, Nyssa and Lauren):

Some of the group went out after dinner for some cheap drinks (Plovdiv is infamous for it’s dirt cheap prices - 3 euros for a liter of beer) whilst Nyssa went to bed and Lauren, Megan and I stayed up watching the only English channel on TV.

Istanbul (Turkey)

An incredibly hectic city with over 12 million residents in such a small area of land. Features many mosques (Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia Mosque being incredibly impressive), a massive Grand Bazaar (where the hassling begins), streets lined with restaurants and souvenir shops and plenty of other streets you can get yourself lost in. Istanbul is not the cleanest city…hygiene is a key issue I have with cities and that being a near determinative factor, I cannot rank Istanbul as highly as some other cities. I can see how some people LOVE the atmosphere - bustling and lively but for me it was a little too full on! I preferred Kusadasi (where we stopped for half a day during the cruise) because I felt less overwhelmed by the people and the markets and the hectic lifestyle. I do appreciate what Istanbul has to offer because when I walked around the city, I found myself with my camera perpetually propped high, ready to snap almost any moment in front of me because there were so many interesting things and amazing sights before my eyes.

General observaions about the Balkans and eastern Europe:

- pathways are always in dangeriously sub-optimal condition

- showers come glass-less, cutain-less and overall barrier-less.

- you’d be lucky to come across an english shop assistant or waiter unless you’re at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul

- nothing works

- communist buildings and hotels are not uncommon (eg. our hotel in Serbia)

- food is great but beware of excessive amounts of meat and Turkish streetfood

- you cannot be a vegetarian and travel in eastern Europe without ending up severely malnourished

- don’t come to eastern Europe if you want perfect weather

- google maps does not know all

- tripadvisor, however, does.

- there will be a constant need to visit a currency exchange office and you will get ripped off at least once

- eastern Europe is an AMAZING part of the world…one which everyone should definitely visit to know what it’s really about

End of tour:

A really unique insight into life in Eastern Europe. I’m lucky to have experienced it from a first hand perspective. So many things I didn’t know about the history of these places and so much more to learn. So many unexpected surprises from cities i’d barely heard of.

Anyway, I am market-ed out after the Grand Bazaar. Good night!

Sail away

A last minute, late night exchange of emails resulted in us booking a full day sailing tour. The idea of a yacht has always enticed me so that teamed with a 27 degree day and the Adriatic sea was kind of unbeatable.

We have been in Split for two days. Split is a town along the Adriatic Riviera that used to be a purely transit city but in the past 5 years, it has developed into a popular destination for all sorts of tourists. On our first day, we explored the old town. Similar to Dubrovnik, the whole old city floor was marble tiles. The architecture was similar but Split seemed to me to be less planned, more carefree and more condensed. It is hard to pick a favourite as they have their individual attractive qualities. As soon as I walked into the old town of Split, I liked it. Every raw aspect of it was there to fall in love with, especially the apparent inability of an architect to align the bell tower with the wall immediately in front of it. Markets, cafes and boats are what defines Split; upon first impression, at least.

Anyway - to the fun part…sailing! We were on the ferry to Hvar island at 8.30am. From Hvar we would meet our “skipper” aka driver and 3 other people who were to spend the day with us on a fairly attractive sailing yacht. Having been on sailing camp in year 10 with Amy and Venetia proved to contribute well to what was going on when and what ropes do what…NOT. I couldn’t recall a thing. No wonder we capsized twice; once in shark bay. Luckily today our skipper was a bit of an expert, owning her own sail boat and having competed in numerous regattas. It wasn’t overly windy so we did use a bit of the motor but we did get a decent amount of sail time, allowing us to purposefully hang our legs off one side of the boat to balance out the weight. The water was the bluest (and warmest with the surface at 23 degrees) i’ve seen in any ocean / sea. Greece was blue but I think Croatia is a little less travelled and so waters are a little purer. Ultimate relaxation time. We made our way towards Vis island, stopping by the Green Cave. The cave has it’s name from the colour of the cave during periods of strong sunlight. There is a circular hole in the top of the cave which allows through a beam of light, illuminating that particular stream in a shade of teal green all the way through the water to the bottom of the cafe. Snorkle handy, I was able to swim through the light. I felt like a stupid fish, swimming back and forth through the beam of light, thinking something would happen to me each time I passed through and saw my skin light up. Of course, nothing happened but I did get some kind of adrenaline rush each time which was nice. We then sailed to Vis island where we anchored in and stopped for lunch which was pre made for us - cheese, bread, tuna pate, cous cous salad, spiral pasta, mixed salad, cookies, white wine and nectarines and peaches. It was a perfect setting…it made me want a yacht…just so I can throw lunch parties on the boat with the summer wind and beachy backdrop. After a quick swim and jump of the boat session, we sailed back towards Hvar to make in time (JUST in time; the owner of the tour company had to drive us speedily back since we missed our bus…) for our ferry back to Split. GREAT DAY!

 I LOVE SAILING! Particularly when i’m the one just chilling on the boat, no responsibilities. It is so freeing :)

Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

The Croatian national park named Plitvicka Jezera was magical to say the least. It spans over about 300km² and consists of 16 visible cascading lakes. It is just so natural, flawless and pure that I was perpetually in awe…this made evident by the fact that all I could say was “wow” and “this is crazy” over and over again.

Katrina and I decided we wanted to attempt a 9km hike whilst Nyssa was content with strolling the boardwalks on lake level. Kat and I trekked through mountainous terrain on “autumn” leaves which bounced with each step, dirt paths and forest shrubs whilst fighting off royal blue coloured dragon flies and butterflies. We were rewarded with some fantastic views (especially of the “Big Slap waterfall”) and secluded streams where tourists didn’t tend to venture. After the hike we continued on the boardwalks, making our way up the cascade of lakes, bewildered by the intensity of the blueness of the water.

Every season and every year it changes. Being summer, the waterfalls were not as dramatic since rainfall was not as consistent. Some of the rangers commented that Autumn was the best time as tourism was not as prevalent and also the waterfalls are more dense. I would also like to visit again in winter because the surrounding mountains become ski resorts and some of the lakes in the national park freeze over and the waterfalls become icy. Something to dream about. We were also told that if we were to come again in a few years time, the national park would look different because the rocks are made of limestone so the water naturally changes the shape and consequently the landscape.

We were hoping to spot a big brown bear (preferably from afar, like from the other side of the lake) but they seemed to be in hibernation so the only animals we spotted were the billions of fish in the shallow waters.

This may be the most beautiful natural place i’ve seen to date.

Croatian blue (Dubrovnik and Zadar)

Just a quick update on Croatia! Didn’t know what to expect coming here. Impressions: well kept history, friendly people, attracts many tourists (Australians in particular), culturally rich, picturesque beaches, substantially male populated and architecturally pleasing to the eye.

DUBROVNIK:

Dubrovnik is much more impressive in real life that what i’d seen in pictures. The old city has a floor that is fully tiled with marble and is enclosed by wall 2km in circumference (tiny!) with various forts surrounding it as it’s been a center for maritime trade. It is a very elegant town with beautiful sea and mountain views at every turn. Our time in Dubrovnik consisted of some walking, step climbing, going to the same café 3 times over the span of 24 hours, watching people drink out of fountains, a 7km kayak trip in the Mediterranean (my arms are now sufficiently dead), snorkeling in a massive cave only reachable by boat, sunset and wine. All 3 of us agreed that we really enjoyed Dubrovnik as a city and what it has to offer and although most of the citizens are not so patriotic (we found that many wanted to get out of Croatia because of the bleak economy), we found the country to be very welcoming with irresistible pebbled beaches. Contrary to what we were advised, Dubrovnik seemed to be a very safe city with a very family-oriented environment. 

 

ZADAR: 

8 hour bus ride away from Dubrovnik. Heard more about Croatians wanting to escape their country saying that wages were low and economy down and overall low morale. Didn’t quite know what to say to the young waiter at the pizza shop (where we had a massive pizza…it was literally like a ruler in diameter). Anyway, he gave us some insider advice about what to see in Zadar, telling us we must check out the “Sea Organ”. We couldn’t quite figure out what it was from his explanation so all we could think of was Davy Jones in Pirates of the Caribbean. Went to check it out later at night. TUrned out to be a set of steps from which there were grooves and holes from which you could hear the sounds of the sea like wind tubes playing music according to the waves and wind. It was actually very relaxing to just sit there and chill out to the sounds of the sea organ. We managed to check out the old town of Zadar which was also marble floored (seems to be a common thing in Croatia). There are over 30 churches in Zadar as well as a Roman form (a very open display of ancient ruins, a bit like the Roman agora in Athens), a busy main street filled with gelato and pizza shops and a beautiful boardwalk next to the harbour that is packed with people at sunset.


Belgrade, Sebia

Didn’t actually sightsee here…I literally just ate and slept. I did this knowing that I’d be back on my Eastern Europe trek in a week’s time so didn’t feel the need to see absolutely everything. It was a good opportunity to catch up on some well needed rest. Belgrade: cheap food, good meat, vibrant café culture reminding me a little of Melbourne, not touristy – overall, a cosy little city.